Exclusive new Contagion & Carnage: The Plague Tour at The Real Mary King’s Close brings to life one of Edinburgh’s darkest chapters
The Real Mary King’s Close is offering an uncompromising look into one of the most devastating chapters of Edinburgh’s history: the Plague.
Recently revealed as the UK’s favourite tourist attraction and 11th best visitor attraction in Europe in this year’s Tripadvisor® Travellers’ Choice® Awards – Best of the Best for 2024, this limited-time event promises a compelling insight into the people who lived—and died—through Edinburgh’s darkest days.
The immersive ‘Contagion & Carnage: The Plague Tour’will take place every Friday and Saturday throughout April 2025, within the atmospheric underground streets of The Real Mary King’s Close. Guests will be transported back to the 17th century during the tour with stories on how the Black Death ravaged the city, as streets were overcrowded and unsanitary.
During the tour, which is not for the faint hearted, guests will learn about figures such as Dr. John Paulitious, Edinburgh’s first official plague doctor, and Lang Meg, a rare female leader of the city’s Foul Clengers—the team tasked with cleaning infected homes and disposing of the dead.
Through storytelling, visitors will witness the impact of the bubonic plague and learn about the desperate measures taken to contain its spread.
Guests will explore the once cramped 17th-century homes, where entire families suffered through illness with little hope of survival. The tour also delves into the gruesome medical practices of the time, from the use of red-hot pokers to treat buboes to the introduction of the now-iconic plague doctor’s beaked mask, an early form of protective clothing.
Paul Nixon, General Manager at The Real Mary King’s Close, said:“The Real Mary King’s Close is a place filled with excitement and mystery, as guests explore what the city was once like.
“The streets encountered some of Edinburgh’s darkest days, and the plague was one of the most devastating events to hit the city as it ravaged the overcrowded streets. We are proud to be able to tell the story of what happened with our new immersive Plague Tour that will not only bring to life what happened but show how it impacted us all today helping shape modern pandemic responses.”
The experience draws striking parallels between past and present, highlighting the evolution of disease control and the eerie similarities between historic quarantines and modern pandemic responses. This gripping exploration of Edinburgh’s plague-ridden past is both educational and thought-provoking, shedding light on a chapter of history that shaped the city’s future.
The Real Mary King’s Close stands as an important part of Edinburgh’s history. It teaches the following generations about the incredible struggles people faced during the plague, the extreme living conditions, and the punishing impact of social hierarchy.
The tours will be running four times per day every Friday and Saturday throughout April 2025. Tickets for the Plague Tour are priced at £30 per person, with availability limited due to the intimate nature of the tour. Given the expected demand, early booking is highly recommended.
A first opportunity to hear Councillor Stephen Jenkinson, the Council’s new Transport Convener, speak on the role of cycling as part of Edinburgh City Council’s transport policy.
Cllr Jenkinson will be accompanied by Deborah Paton, Head of Transport, Strategy and Partnership at the Council. Deborah has considerable previous transport and active travel policy experience, including at Glasgow and West Lothian Councils.
At the start of his convenership, Cllr Jenkinson said there has been a great deal of consultation and policy development in the last few years, resulting in the Mobility Plan and other excellent policies under Future Streets … and that his priority would now be delivery.
This is a chance to hear what is happening, and to put forward your priorities, ideas and concerns in the QA.
Doors open 6.45 for coffee, stalls and chat, including Spokes Maps at special stall prices, and a stall to join Spokes or renew membership
Questions Questions for the panel, can be emailed to spokes@spokes.org.uk, at least a day in advance. However, questions in person from audience members are likely to have greatest priority on the night
Online We hope to live broadcast on our youtube channel – confirmation nearer the time – and make the recording available soon after
John’s Coffee House and Tavern reopens after 200 years!
After 200 years, John’s Coffee House and Tavern is returning to Edinburgh’s historic Royal Mile following a £500,000 investment from CoDE Concepts.
Once a renowned gathering place for Scotland’s legal minds, writers, and thinkers, the revived John’s Coffee House and Tavern honours its rich past while celebrating the best of local Scottish produce.
Following a complete refurbishment, the new space allows the original assets of the coffee house to stand out thanks to Edinburgh-based interior designers, Morgan Architects. Working to accentuate the historic details of the coffee house, the brand-new, warm and inviting space welcomes guests to enjoy everything from breakfast in the morning to drinks later at night, staying true to Edinburgh’s 17th century coffee house and taverns.
Founded in 1688 in Parliament Square, John’s Coffee House and Tavern was a lively hub of intellectual discussion and social debate. At the time, there was little distinction between coffee houses and taverns – both served coffee, ale, wine and food making them central to Edinburgh’s bustling social and political scene. John’s Coffee House was no exception, drawing in a diverse crowd of legal minds, writers and merchants.
Frequented by notable figures such as Adam Smith and David Hume, it is said that some of the most influential ideas of the Enlightenment were born here, with a coffee or ale in hand. Judges and advocates famously gathered for their midday “meridians”, a stiff drink before heading back to court. Though the original establishment was tragically lost in the Great Fire of Edinburgh in 1824, its legacy lives on.
Goods of all kinds once passed through John’s Coffee House, from coffee, fine wines, to land, ships and even stocks of the Royal Bank of Scotland. Now, two centuries later, this historic establishment is reopening offering a menu that blends tradition with contemporary Scottish flavours.
Signature drinks include the historic ‘Cauld Cock & Feather’, a glass of brandy with raisins, once a favourite of 18th-century patrons, and ‘The Enlightened Irish Coffee,’ featuring Highland Nectar Scotch Whisky Liqueur, freshly brewed coffee, maple syrup, and a topping of whipped cream. Guests can also enjoy sharing boards featuring Scottish cheeses, charcuterie, and artisanal chutneys from Arran.
Sourcing ingredients from the local suppliers, the coffee house and tavern will feature tea and coffee from Edinburgh Tea Company and Common Coffee, haggis from Hall’s of Scotland, and baked goods from Le Petit Français and The Edinburgh Scone Company. Drinks include craft beers from Bellfield Brewery and cider from Edinburgh Cider Co.
Andrew Landsburgh, Director and Founder of CoDE Concepts shared:“This is one of Edinburgh’s most fascinating and storied buildings. Walking through the old cells and courtrooms back in 2019, when opening the CoDE The Court, was eerie, yet inspiring. Our vision was to modernise the space while paying homage to its extraordinary history.
“Coffee was at the heart of John’s Coffee House and Tavern for over a century, fuelling debates, shaping ideas and bringing people together. Now 200 years later, we’re proud to continue this tradition, serving exceptional coffee and drinks in a space where history is written on the walls.”
Located in a Category A-listed building within Edinburgh’s Old Town Conservation Area and World Heritage Site, the new John’s Coffee House and Tavern invites visitors to step into history while enjoying the best of Scotland’s culinary offerings.
A portrait of Queen Elizabeth II standing against the dramatic Highlands landscape of Balmoral will be among almost 100 rarely seen photographs, negatives, and archival materials from the last 100 years now on display at The King’s Gallery in Edinburgh.
Royal Portraits: A Century of Photography will chart the evolution of royal portrait photography from the 1920s to the present day, unveiling the stories behind the creation of some of the most iconic images of the Royal Family.
The exhibition brings together little-seen vintage prints (the original works produced by the photographer, or under their direct supervision), contact sheets and proofs from the Royal Collection,alongside documents including letters and memorandums held in the Royal Archives.
It is the first time many of the works have been shown in Scotland, following the exhibition’s successful run in London.
Alessandro Nasini, curator of the exhibition, said: ‘Portrait photography is a creative process, and it has been fascinating to discover the careful decisions that were made to achieve such unforgettable portraits of the Royal Family, taken by some of the most celebrated photographers of the past century – fromDorothy WildingandCecil Beaton to David Bailey and Glasgow-born Rankin.
‘Although we may be used to seeing photographs on screens, the opportunity to see the original prints up close is rare, as they can’t often be on display for conservation reasons. With archival material providing context into how these photographs were made and used, I hope visitors will enjoy going behind the scenes into the process of creating royal portraits.’
A star work of the exhibition will be a striking photograph of Queen Elizabeth II by Julian Calder, taken on the Highlands landscape of the Balmoral Estate in 2010 (top).
Beneath an unpredictable sky and cloaked in the mantle of the Order of the Thistle, the late monarch braved the threat of rain and midges to achieve Calder’s vision, inspired by 19th-century paintings of Clan chiefs – as seen in a behind-the-scenes photograph reproduced on a panel within the exhibition.
In contrast, for her 2007 portrait of the sovereign, Annie Leibovitz – the first American to receive an official commission to photograph Queen Elizabeth II – used digital editing to superimpose the figure against a stormy sky.
The past century was an exciting time for portrait photography; techniques evolved rapidly, and the transition from a manual craft to an increasingly digital process is a key theme of the exhibition.
One of the earliest photographs shows the royal family – including the young Princesses Elizabeth and Margaret – smiling in soft-focus and framed by an oval vignette, typical of its time in 1934.
To achieve this effect, society photographer Marcus Adams had to adjust the lens of an enlarger, a device for producing a photographic print from the original negative, which will also be on show.
Later photographs will show how portraits became bigger and ever more colourful over the course of the century. The impact of Nadav Kander’s bold, 1.6m-tall headshot of King Charles III when Prince of Wales, taken at Birkhall for a 2013 cover of Time magazine,or Hugo Burnand’s jewel-hued official Coronation portraits in 2023, was possible thanks to advances in printing technology.
The close relationships between photographers and royal sitters will reveal themselves over the course of the exhibition, as seen in the intimate portraits of Princess Margaret taken by Lord Snowdon, born Antony Armstrong-Jones, before and after they marriedin 1960.
Further highlights include 19 portraits taken by Cecil Beaton, who enjoyed a long-standing relationship with the Royal Family. Beaton came to prominence photographing stylish society figures in 1920s London and was seen as a surprising and avant-garde choice when Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother selected him for the now-famous shoot in the Buckingham Palace Gardens in 1939.
Visitors will also see photographs from their last sitting together in 1970 after more than three decades of collaboration, with the photographs later released to mark The Queen Mother’s 70th birthday. Referring to their unique relationship, The Queen Mother wrote to him saying, ‘we must be deeply grateful to you for producing us, as really quite nice & real people!’
Visitors will discover the multitude of purposes royal portraits have served, from reputation-making portraits of a young Queen Elizabeth II for use on currency and stamps by Yousuf Karsh, to birthday portraits of Princess Anne by Norman Parkinson.
A handwritten memorandum from Queen Elizabeth II’s Assistant Private Secretary in 1953 reveals her suggestions for which Coronation portraits should be sent to Commonwealth representatives, used to thank Maids of Honour, and given as family mementos.
More recently, a photograph of Her Majesty Queen Camilla by Jamie Hawkesworth commissioned by Vogue shows The Queen with a book in her lap to represent Her Majesty’s passion for literature.
Following a successful launch in 2024, The King’s Gallery will continue to offer £1 tickets to this exhibition for visitors receiving Universal Credit and other named benefits. Further concessionary rates are available, including discounted tickets for young people, half-price entry for children (with under-fives free), and the option to convert standard tickets bought directly from Royal Collection Trust into a 1-Year Pass for unlimited re-entry for 12 months.
An accompanying programme of events will include:
Snapshots: Gallery Short Talks: A series of regular short talks taking an in-depth look at a different photograph each week and the story of its creation (6 March – 4 September).
Student Sessions: Curation and Conservation: An exciting opportunity for students in arts, heritage, and culture to hear from curator Alessandro Nasini, Senior Curator of Photographs, and Ashleigh Brown, Paper and Photographic Conservator, about what goes into an exhibition through interactive talks, workshops, and group discussion (27 March).
Curator’s Introduction: Alessandro Nasini, exhibition curator, will discuss the development of the exhibition and his personal highlights (11 April and 15 August).
Royal Portraits in the Press: In thisin-personlecture, Helen Lewandowski, Assistant Curator of Photographs, will discuss how iconic royal images have been shared in the media, from the printed press to social media (2 May).
Rankin: In Conversation: An exclusive digital event with exhibition curator Alessandro Nasini in discussion with renowned photographer Rankin, covering his techniques, work, and experience working with the late Queen (6 June).
Explore the hidden streets of Edinburgh like never before with The Real Mary King’s Close ‘Underground Unlocked’ experience
The streets beneath Edinburgh’s Royal Mile which were home to real residents, will come alive once again.
For one evening only on Thursday, 13th March, The Real Mary King’s Close is inviting guests to a truly unique event that will cast The Close in an entirely new light. Unlike the usual guided experiences, this immersive event will let visitors wander the streets at their own pace, uncover hidden tales, and interact with the past in an environment brimming with atmosphere and characters.
The one-of-a-kind event will see the streets beneath Edinburgh’s Royal Mile buzz with life as guests stroll through preserved homes and businesses, stepping into the world of those who once lived, worked, and died here.
Recently crowned the UK’s best tourist attraction and ranked 11th best visitor attraction in Europe in the 2024 TripAdvisor® Travellers’ Choice® Awards – Best of the Best, The Real Mary King’s Close continues to captivate visitors with its unique blend of history, storytelling, and immersive experiences.
Guests at ‘Underground Unlocked’ will come face to face with the people who once called The Close home. Encounter the enigmatic plague doctor, John Paulitious, and hear his grim warnings. Stop for a conversation with Mary Stewart, Mary Queen of Scots, who spent her last night in Edinburgh in Pearson’s Close.
Exchange words with renowned poet Robert Fergusson, or pause to listen to Janet Chesney, mother of the Close’s final resident, as she shares memories of a vanished way of life.
The two-hour experience will allow guests to wander leisurely and curiously as every turn reveals a new piece of history, character, and every shadow holds a secret.
Paul Nixon, General Manager at The Real Mary King’s Close, said: “Our new Underground Unlocked events give a rare chance to explore The Real Mary King’s Close at your own pace for up to two hours.
“During the one-off experience, guests will meet and interact with up to 13 historic residents, and step inside preserved homes and businesses, exactly as they stood centuries ago.”
“We wanted to give an idea of what the streets would have been like back in the 17th when the Close would have been bustling with life. At The Real Mary King’s Close, we are passionate about storytelling and creating unforgettable experiences that transport our visitors back in time.
“We can’t wait to welcome them to ‘Underground Unlocked’ and give them our most immersive experience yet.”
The special ‘Underground Unlocked’ experience will be running on Thursday 13th March from 18.00 until 21.00. Tickets are £40 per person. Spaces are extremely limited, so pre-booking is highly recommended.
This month we are showing the work of Jane Murray (1952-2024). The exhibition, titled Starting With A Line, was organised first by Jane herself and latterly by friends and family and includes paintings on wood, oil pastel on paper and mixed media works.
In a short introductory text in her own words, Jane shared reflections on her art practice which conclude: “As I have got older there is the realisation that the genre of my work was less reliant on observation and more on the expressive and instinctual, similar to that early child who put together visuals to make sense of her world.”
Jane was also a much-loved member of Edinburgh International Book Festival’s Citizen Writers Group and some of her old pals have already visited the exhibition on George IV Bridge.
To celebrate the life and learnings of revolutionary 19th and 20th century Scottish social thinker Patrick Geddes, the Scottish International Storytelling Festival in partnership with the Sir Patrick Geddes Trust is holding a day of workshops, screenings, talks and discussions as part of Edinburgh’s 900 programme on Saturday, 22 February.
Patrick Geddes by Kenny Hunter on display at the Scottish Storytelling Centre
The day looks to the future, structured around Geddes’ key sayings including ‘By Creating We Think’ and combining ideas with practical initiatives that can open pathways into ecology, culture and creativity to create a city rich in local, national and international identities.
Speakers include environmental artists Kenny Munro and Claudia Zeiske; Murdo MacDonald who is a leading writer and original interpreter of Patrick Geddes; environmentalist and nature writer Mandy Haggith; Bengali storyteller Neel Debdutt Paul; Samuel Gallacher who is Director of Sottish Historic Buildings Trust and has had close involvement with the ideas and legacy of Geddes; and many other writers, activists and thinkers.
Patrick Geddes was an ecologist and town planner who believed that our future lies in the merging of the natural world with human culture. He also championed the need for science and society to work together, citizen action, creative learning, and the need for green space.
Donald Smith, Director of the Scottish Storytelling Festival and Programmer of ‘By Creating We Think’ said: “Geddes would have loved to be at this event.
“His method was to bring people together and let the ideas and passions flow. Of course in a sense he will be there, and I can’t think of anyone more important to have at Edinburgh’s 900th celebrations.”
Samuel Gallacher, Director of Scottish Historic Buildings Trust said: “Geddes’ revolutionary thinking has influenced more than a century of practice, and yet still, his ideas and methods have still so much to offer to society today as we reflect, as Geddes did in his own time, on our rapidly changing world.”
‘By Creating We Think’ is supported by the City of Edinburgh Council as part of Edinburgh’s 900th year celebrations and The Sir Patrick Geddes Memorial Trust. It will be the final event in the Scottish International Storytelling Festival’s programme of over 40 community events across the city that have been attended by more than 1600 people.
By Creating We Think Saturday 22 February from 10.30am to 5pm Scottish Storytelling Centre, 43-45 High Street, Edinburgh EH1 1SR.
A day of talks, workshops, screenings and lively discussion to celebrate the life and learnings of revolutionary 19thcentury Scottish social thinker Patrick Geddes,
The event is ticketed on a ‘pay as you can’ basis.
Introduction and hosting by Andrew Bachell, environmentalist and Chair, Traditional Arts and Culture Scotland.
Re-Naturing a Nation:Mandy Haggith, poet, novelist and nature writer. Greening the City: Bridgend Farmhouse with John Knox and Will Golding.
Think Global, Act Local
Cultures in Conversation: environmental artist Kenny Munro and storyteller/writer Neel Debdutt Paul explore a web of connections between Patrick Geddes and India.
Cultures in Conversation: Tom Hubbard writer and researcher; Claudia Zeiske, environmental artist, producer and community curator; and Iliyana Nedkova Curator of the Traditional Dance Forum of Scotland, explore a web of connections between Geddes, France and Europe.
Place, Work, Folk
Remaking and restoring – a participative session led by Claudia Zeiske, environmental artist, producer and community curator.
By Living We Learn
Geddes, Tagore and Education – the work of Stewart A Robertson and Bashabi Fraser introduced by Donald Smith
The Making of Books: By Publishing We Think – Murdo MacDonald, Art Historian and Essayist.
A Geddes Future in Edinburgh’s Old TownSam Gallacher, Scottish Historic Buildings Trust
On Saturday 15 February, Rachel Hazell, The Travelling Bookbinder, will be sharing all she has learnt about the power of creativity at her talk The Benefit of Books at the Fruitmarket Gallery’s annualArtists’ Bookmarket.
The talk is free to attend, tickets can be booked HERE.
Rachel Hazell, The Travelling Bookbinder said: “I’m excited to attend the Artists’ Bookmarket – it’s the social highlight of my year – a fantastic event to see inspiring work, familiar faces and new innovations is the artist’ book world- reconnecting with my tribe!
“After twenty-seven years of using the book as a creative medium, this talk distils what why and how books are so great.
“I’m passionate about sharing the art of bookbinding with others and hope to inspire them to create something, in whatever form, that brings relaxation and mindfulness.”
Based between Edinburgh and the Hebridean Isle of Iona, Rachel has explored and taught this ancient craft of bookbinding all over the world, and her talk will explore the physical, mental, practical and emotional impact practising the artform can have. Whether as a meditative process or a means of self-expression she will share how bookbinding nurtures well-being and personal growth and can be a key tool in pursuit of mindfulness.
Rachel’s approach to bookbinding puts a modern spin on the artform, and at the workshops she hosts across the world – from Shetland to Venice – she encourages participants to take inspiration and materials from their unique surroundings and incorporate them in their work.
Whether that’s driftwood for the cover, or maps for the pages, nothing is off the table when it comes to making it a part of your bound story.
Rachel’s fine craftmanship has made her a sought-after figure in the world of bookbinding, artistry, and wellness and she has featured in publications including Condé Nast Traveller, the Financial Times, Selvedge and The Simple Things.
In 2024 she published a book of photos of her daily swims, taken on Iona during lockdown. Today’s Changing Room featured in The Scotsman among others. All the proceeds go to the mental health charity BlueTonic.
As teacher, author and traveller, books, words and the power of imagination have always been central to Rachel’s life and the day she was taught how to make her first book; she knew she’d be a bookbinder for the rest of her life. Hear a bit about her story and how and she believes that everyone has a book inside them.
What: Rachel Hazell: ‘The Benefit of Books’ at Artists’ Bookmarket 2025
This February half term, The Real Mary King’s Close invites visitors to step back in time and discover the intriguing stories of Edinburgh’s past with three captivating experiences. From the chilling tales of true crime to groundbreaking medical advancements, there’s something for history buffs and curious families alike.
Beneath the iconic Royal Mile lies a hidden world teeming with history, and the True Crimetour offers a glimpse into the city’s darker side. This adults-only experience delves into the Old Town’s grim tales of crime and punishment.
Visitors will explore the reign of James VI, the witch trials, and the shocking realities of addiction, eviction, and lawlessness in centuries past. Led by a dedicated “True Crimes” guide, the tour even reveals a fascinating connection between Mary King’s Close and the character who inspired The Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde.
Meanwhile, the Medical History tour takes guests on a journey through 17th-century medicine. Visitors can enjoy learning about the city’s last plague outbreak, the unusual diagnostic methods of local apothecaries like Dr Arnott, and Edinburgh’s legacy as a hub for medical innovation.
Guests will hear the inspiring stories of trailblazers like the Edinburgh Seven, who fought for women’s right to practice medicine, and Dr James Barry, the military surgeon who performed the British Empire’s first successful caesarean section.
For those seeking a hands-on adventure, Dr Arnott’s Sampling Sensation offers families a unique opportunity to immerse themselves in historical medicine. After a guided tour of the Close, participants will use all their senses, including taste, to diagnose ailments using 17th-century techniques. Guests will also create their own herbal remedy using authentic recipes.
Paul Nixon, General Manager of The Real Mary King’s Close, said: “We’re excited to welcome visitors this February to experience the real stories of our former residents and their remarkable contributions to history. Whether you’re uncovering the city’s criminal past, delving into medical breakthroughs, or stepping into the role of a 17th-century doctor, there’s something for everyone to discover.”
Recently crowned the UK’s best tourist attraction and ranked 11th best visitor attraction in Europe in the 2024 TripAdvisor® Travellers’ Choice® Awards – Best of the Best, The Real Mary King’s Close continues to captivate visitors with its unique blend of history, storytelling, and immersive experiences.
