The iconic Lewis chess pieces can now be viewed from a very different angle thanks to a new display at the National Museum of Scotland.
Among the best-known objects in Scotland’s most popular visitor attraction, ten of the medieval gaming pieces have been redisplayed in a new case which allows visitors to view their backs for the first time.
Made from walrus ivory and sperm whale teeth, the pieces range from the wide-eyed ‘Berserker’ who gnaws frantically on his shield, to a Queen who rests her chin in her hand, a rather fed-up look on her face.
The carved figures are famous for their expressions. However, their backs are just as interesting and intricately detailed. The thrones feature complex vine scroll and interlace carvings, while the hair on some figures tumbles down their backs in stylised ringlets.
Redisplayed from yesterday [31 October] with new lighting, a new layout and refreshed interpretation, the chess pieces are now positioned more prominently, at the entrance to the Kingdom of the Scots gallery, and visible from the adjacent Hawthornden Court.
Dr Alice Blackwell, Senior Curator of Medieval Archaeology and History at National Museums Scotland said: “The Lewis chess pieces are much loved thanks in part to their iconic expressions and poses, however these are objects which were designed to be appreciated from all angles.
“After all, each player sees the backs of their own pieces. The carver has really gone to town on the throne backs in particular, with entwined tendrils and knotwork that are really sumptuous compared to the simpler fronts.
“I’m delighted that visitors to the National Museum of Scotland will now have the chance to get to know these charming characters in the round.”
The chess pieces in National Museums Scotland’s collection form part of a large hoard discovered in Lewis in the early 19th century. They offer fascinating insights into the growing popularity of chess in medieval Europe and the international connections of western Scotland during that period.
The hoard contained 93 gaming pieces in total, from at least four chess sets as well as other games. Eleven pieces are in National Museums Scotland’s collection.
The remaining 82 are in the British Museum’s collection, six of which are on loan to Museum nan Eilean in Lewis.
The pieces were probably made around 1200 in Norway. At this time, Lewis was part of the Norse-Gaelic Kingdom of the Isles, encompassing islands and land along the west coast of Scotland as well as the Isle of Man. There was a strong Scandinavian influence in the region and Norway controlled the kingdom at times.
It is not known who buried the pieces or why. They may have been the property of a merchant, sailing from Scandinavia to Scotland, Ireland or the Isle of Man to sell these highly-prized playing sets.
However given that Lewis was home to powerful people with close ties to Norway, the pieces may instead have been the treasured possession of a local prince, bishop or other leader.
Students explore Future Farming activity at this year’s Careers Hive
Mooving on up! Students Max Connolly and Amy Mills of Vale of Leven Academy pose alongside Elsie, a life-size Ayrshire dairy cow, as part of the Future Farming activity at Edinburgh Science’s annual week-long free schools event Careers Hive.
Initially developed in 2016, Careers Hive is an annual event from Edinburgh Science which inspires S1-S3 pupils to pursue a STEM-based career through hands-on activities and discussions with early-career STEM professionals.
Careers Hive 2024 takes place for schools between 28 October and 1 November at the National Museum of Scotland, with a Public Open Day on 2 November.
Careers Hive offers a unique and fascinating insight that showcases STEM skills as transferrable to a wide range of sectors.
National Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street, Edinburgh 25 January – 27 April 2025 Free admission
An exhibition telling the story of the global effort to develop a COVID-19 vaccine will open at the National Museum of Scotland in January.
Injecting Hope: The Race for a COVID-19 Vaccine explores the scientific principles and adaptation of innovative research behind this extraordinary endeavour. It looks at the UK-wide, behind-the-scenes work that accompanied the vaccines’ rapid development, production, transport and delivery and examines the sheer logistical challenges behind the worldwide rollout.
Revealing the inspiring stories of scientists and innovators collaborating around the globe to find solutions and save lives, the exhibition will show how these people have shaped the world we live in today.
Showcasing more than 100 objects and stories that were collected during the peak of the pandemic, it features artworks, interactives, and personal objects examining everything from the virus itself to the work done behind the scenes by volunteers and researchers to make huge innovations possible.
Highlights include the vial of the first COVID-19 vaccine to be administered worldwide, notebooks used by June Almeida, the Scottish scientist who discovered coronavirus in 1966 and artworks interpreting the story of the pandemic by artists including Luke Jerram, Angela Palmer and Junko Mori.
New content created for the exhibition’s Scottish run will explore some of the uniquely Scottish experiences of the pandemic.
Sophie Goggins, Senior Curator of Biomedical Science at National Museums Scotland said: “The development and rollout of the COVID-19 vaccine in record time is one of the greatest collaborative human achievements in recent memory.
“This exhibition tells the story of just how this extraordinary feat came to be; from the scientific breakthroughs which led to the creation of the vaccine to the countless individuals who helped to roll it out around the globe.”
Injecting Hope is presented by the Science Museum Group (SMG). It comes to the National Museum of Scotland as part of a national and international tour following its inaugural run at the Science Museum in London.
It forms part of a project with the National Council of Science Museums in India and the Guangdong Science Center in China, which, alongside the Science Museum, opened exhibitions in November 2022.
Injecting Hope builds on the work SMG has undertaken in response to the COVID-19 pandemic, including its COVID-19 collecting project, hosting NHS vaccination centres within its museums and public engagement events and materials.
The Injecting Hope project, including the international tour and UK national tour, has been generously supported by Wellcome. The Huo Family Foundation is kindly supporting the national tour of the exhibition.
National Museum of Scotland Chambers Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1JF Open 10:00–17:00 daily
Game On 29 Jun – 3 Nov 2024 Special Exhibition Gallery, Level 3 Tickets on sale spring 2024
Get set for Game On – the largest interactive exhibition of the history and the culture of video games. Game On, an exhibition conceived and curated by Barbican Immersive, examines the creative and technological advances that have established a new medium and artform.
From Sonic the Hedgehog to Mario, explore gaming’s rich history through over 100 playable games from the last five decades.
Cold War Scotland 13 Jul 2024 – 26 Jan 2025 10:00 – 17:00 Special Exhibition Gallery 2, Level 3 Free
Scotland’s unique geography and topography provided a useful base for Allied military preparations and research during the Cold War, a 40-year nuclear stand-off between the USA and the Soviet Union following the end of the Second World War.
Cold War Scotland is an output of Materialising the Cold War, a collaborative research project between National Museums Scotland and the University of Stirling.
The project explores how the Cold War heritage is represented and how museums can adapt to tell this story in future. The exhibition will explore both the visible and invisible legacies of the war in Scotland.
Theravada Buddhism Until 12 Jan 2025 Gallery 3, Level 1 Free
A thought-provoking display charts the history and influence of the Theravāda Buddhist tradition across the world, including its role in Scotland today. The display includes a Buddha on loan from The Dhammapadipa Temple in Edinburgh. The Buddha was designed and made in Thailand in 2013, then later gifted to Temple where it is now used in their garden meditation room.
National Museum of Scotland Chambers Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1JF Open 10:00–17:00 daily
Summer Family Fun Until 12 Aug Mondays & Fridays 10:30 – 15:30 Grand Gallery and spaces across the museum Free, drop in
Join us every Monday and Friday during the holidays for a range of fun drop-in activities for all the family. Our friendly Enabler team will be bringing our favourite themes to life from dinosaurs to outer space and from ancient Egypt to Vikings. Plus, we will be powering up with brand new activities inspired by our summer exhibition Game On.
Gilded Balloon at the Museum 31 Jul – 26 Aug Auditorium Tickets from £10
Start your day with a musical note, enjoy a bit of politics at lunchtime and slide into evenings filled with comedy, plus everything in-between from Friend(s), magic and musicals.
BSL Museum Tour 12 & 16 Aug 11:00 – 12:00 Meet at the Lighthouse Lens in the Grand Gallery, Level 1 Free, booking required
Join BSL tour guide Barbara Brown for a themed, guided tour of the museum. The tour will last around one hour with the chance to explore the museum independently afterwards.
Faovale Imperium 16 – 18 Aug 15:30 – 16:30 Facing the Sea gallery & Level 1 Free – sign up on the day Limited spaces available
Join comedian James Nokise and DJ Don Luchito for a funny and thought-provoking exploration of the National Museum of Scotland’s Pacific collections through poetry and music.
Morning Curator Tour: Cold War Scotland Thu 22 Aug, Wed 25 Sep, Tue 29 Oct 09:15-10:00 Meet at Tower Entrance, Level 1 £12, £10 Members & Conc.
Join our exhibition curators for an exclusive early morning tour of our Cold War Scotland exhibition. Dr Meredith Greiling, Principal Curator of Technology, and Cold War Research Fellow Dr Sarah Harper will delve deeper into stories explored within the exhibition, from the emergence of nuclear energy in Scotland to the vibrant anti-nuclear protests and political activism of the period.
Collection Centre Tours 28 Aug – 26 Mar 2025 National Museums Collection Centre
Discover the secrets of how we store our Natural Sciences, Science & Technology and Scottish History & Archaeology collections, and find out how these objects and specimens are used in international research. This is an in-person event at the National Museums Collection Centre in Granton, for those aged 14 and over.
National Museum of Flight East Fortune Airfield, East Lothian, EH39 5LF Open daily 10:00 – 16:00
Second World War Satchels 2 Jul – 29 Aug 10:00 – 17:00 Concorde Hangar Free with museum admission
Bring the history of the Second World War to life with our summer activity satchels for adults and families. Pick up one of our summer activity satchels and delve deeper into the history of the Second World War.
Separate satchels are available for adult and family visitors. The satchels are free to borrow and can be collected from The Concorde Hangar.
Second World War Puzzle Room 24 Jul – 29 Aug Wed – Fri, 14:00 – 16:00 Building 26 Free with museum admission
Problem solving skills and the ability to work out codes were essential skills for people working in the RAF during the Second World War.
Work together as a family in our puzzle room and see if you can produce the answers. Only by solving four different challenges will you know if you have got what it takes.
Go full circle at our brand-new big event at the National Museum of Flight. Be wowed with 360 stunts from cycle team, The Clan, plus circus displays and lots of have-a-go activities. Join a hula-hoop workshop, try some plate spinning and learn about the science of spheres with STEM science activities. Ticket price includes entry to the whole museum.
National Museum of Rural Life Philipshill Road, East Kilbride, G76 9HR Open 10:00–17:00 daily
Nature Track Packs Until 1 Sep 10:00 – 17:00 Free with museum entry and Annual Pass
Available to borrow at the museum ticket desk, each pack contains fun ideas and activities to help children use all their senses to explore the countryside on a walk to the farm.
MooFest 14 & 15 Sep 11:00 – 16:00 Free with museum admission and Annual Pass
Celebrate all things cattle at the National Museum of Rural Life. We are putting our bovine friends in the spotlight at this weekend of hands-on activities, talks and family fun. Find out all about cows, bulls, milk, and meat with our experts, take part in family craft sessions and meet some of the cattle on our working farm.
A new exhibition at the National Museum of Scotland explores Scotland’s critical position on the frontline of the Cold War. Cold War Scotland (13 Jul 2024 – 26 Jan 2025), features dozens of objects on display for the first time, including secret intelligence training documents and a map of central Scotland marked to highlight targets under threat of nuclear attack.
Scotland’s unique geography and topography provided a useful base for NATO military preparations and research during the Cold War, a 40-year nuclear stand-off between the USA and the Soviet Union following the end of the Second World War. Opening this Saturday, 13 June, the exhibition tells the stories of the Scots at the centre of this global conflict.
For the first time visitors will see an Ordnance Survey map of Scotland hand-painted to highlight areas that were expected to be affected in the event of a nuclear attack, particularly major cities, military bases and dockyards.
Created in the 1980s, it is colour coded to indicate the point of explosion and scale of the impact across the central belt and beyond. Atomic power brought jobs and investment to some of the country’s most remote areas, but as global tensions mounted this threat of attack or nuclear disaster became part of everyday life. Cold War Scotland explores both the visible and invisible legacies of the war in Scotland.
The impact of the war still lingers in Scottish politics, culture and memory. Scots played an active role in the global conflict as soldiers, for example, within intelligence services and as part of voluntary civil defences.
The exhibition also draws on Scotland’s rich history of Cold War-era protest and activism. Firsthand accounts include a young mother who decorated her daughter’s pram with Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament (CND) badges.
A rattle made from an old laundry detergent bottle emblazoned with the CND logo was given to them during the Peace Marches of the early 1980s and is on display in the exhibition.
The exhibition also reveals the physical remains of the Cold War; the ruined bases, forgotten bunkers and decommissioned nuclear power stations still evident across the Scottish landscape.
This infrastructure became part of the fabric of local communities, none more so than the US-controlled listening and monitoring station at RAF Edzell in Angus, now commemorated with its own bespoke tartan.
Dr Meredith Greiling, Principal Curator of Technology at National Museums Scotland, said: “From nuclear submarines to lively peace protests and observation stations perpetually monitoring for devastating attack, the Cold War permeated every aspect of life in Scotland for decades.
“This conflict is so often remembered on a global scale, but this thought-provoking exhibition will offer a Scottish perspective of the period, allowing Scots from all walks of life to tell their remarkable stories for the first time.”
Further highlights of the exhibition include artwork from Glasgow’s 1951 Exhibition of Industrial Power and a toy nuclear power station, operated by steam and hot to the touch when played with.
Both these examples highlight the spirit of optimism, progress and modernity associated with atomic energy in postwar Britain. In contrast, a Geiger counter used by farmers in East Ayrshire to test for radiation in sheep following the Chernobyl Disaster illustrates the enduring but unseen impact of the Cold War on Scotland’s landscape.
The exhibition will be supported by a book and programme of events including curator tours and talks. Cold War Scotland is an output of Materialising the Cold War, a collaborative research project between National Museums Scotland and the University of Stirling.
The project explores how the Cold War heritage is represented and how museums can adapt to tell this story in future. Materialising the Cold War is funded by a major grant from the Arts and Humanities Research Council.
Cold War Scotland is part of Edinburgh Art Festival, taking place between 9 – 25 August 2024.
Cold War Scotland is part of Edinburgh Art Festival, taking place between 9-25 August 2024.
On Wednesday (10th July 2024), Foysol Choudhury MSP spoke in the National Museum of Scotland at the African and Caribbean Heritage Public Engagement event on mapping heritage through community engagement and cultural performances.
The event included insightful discussions, theatre and musical performances, and a walking tour around Edinburgh to explore the rich African-Caribbean heritage throughout the city.
The event heard Mr Choudhury speak on the importance of celebrating diversity in Scotland, amplifying voices that have historically been ignored, and using arts and culture to educate young people about Scotland’s colonial history and the link to modern racism.
Mr Choudhury said: “Museums, historic attractions, and cultural events are vital forms of education, which can help inform young people on Scotland’s role in the horrors of the British Empire’s colonialism, so they can confront the unfair systems of power at the foundation of our modern society.
“There’s important work happening throughout the culture sector to develop engaging educational experiences on colonialism, including the Glasgow: City of Empire exhibition at Kelvingrove.
“I’m passionate about supporting similar initiatives at cultural institutions across Scotland.
“Sweeping Scotland’s colonial history under the rug will not erase it, and it will not fix modern issues of racism and inequality, which have colonial roots.
“Shedding light on these dark histories and educating young people about Scotland’s colonial past is essential to better prepare the next generation to participate in the important work of anti-racism and building a more progressive, just, and inclusive Scotland.”
As Scottish Labour’s Shadow Culture Minister and as the convenor of the Scottish Parliament’s Cross-Party Group on Challenging Racial and Religious Prejudice, Mr Choudhury will continue to advocate for anti-racist education and promote equality for all in Scotland.
The world’s largest interactive exhibition of the culture and history of video games opens at the National Museum of Scotland this weekend. Game On brings together over 100 playable games spanning 50 years. It features iconic characters from Space Invaders to Mario and highlights Scotland’s role as a pioneer and world leader in video game development.
Game On presents Scotland as home to some of the most innovative and influential game makers, including Rockstar Games, creators of the Grand Theft Auto and Red Dead Redemption series.
Objects from the developer’s archive will be displayed for the first time, including limited edition merchandise and a ‘Key to Liberty City’, awarded to players who completed 100% of Grand Theft Auto IV within one week of the game’s release in 2008. Only 500 were ever made.
“Scotland has played an instrumental part in the evolution of video games as a medium,” said Jennifer Kolbe, Head of Publishing at Rockstar Games. “We’re excited to help the National Museum of Scotland reveal more about the nation’s contributions to this thriving aspect of modern culture.”
The exhibition reveals the story of Scottish gaming, from its roots in Dundee in the 1980s with the manufacture of the ZX Spectrum computer to emerging talent such as Sad Owl Studios, whose game Viewfinder was awarded Best British Game at the Bafta Game Awards 2024. Visitors will also discover the important role Scottish studio, 4J studios played in making Minecraft a global phenomenon.
Game On is curated and toured by Barbican Immersive. The exhibition examines the creative and technological advances that have established gaming as a new art form.
Patrick Moran, Game On Associate Curator, said: ““The gaming world has had an undeniable social, cultural, and technological impact. Games transcend the boundaries between art and technology, becoming part of popular culture.
“Game On presents the opportunity to not only see the evolution of video games and how they have changed over time but also to immerse yourself inside gaming worlds with over 100 playable games.
“The show features the largest playable collection in the world, including original arcades, hand-held consoles, and key games, including Pac-Man, Super Mario, Tetris, Sonic the Hedgehog, Just Dance and FIFA.
“The exhibition also explores new advances in the gaming world. Highly interactive, groundbreaking and popular, Game On is engaging for hardcore gamers and visitors new to gaming. Crucially, the show is suitable for players of all ages.”
The National Museum of Scotland was the exhibition’s very first touring venue in 2002, and Game On has since been visited by over 5 million people of all ages in 25 cities around the world.
Dr Geoff Belknap, Keeper of Science and Technology at National Museums Scotland, said: “It’s great to welcome Game On back to the National Museum of Scotland. As someone in charge of Scotland’s national science and technology collections, it’s exciting to explore the country’s incredible contribution to gaming, past and present.
“I’m delighted to bring Scottish independent games to a new audience, including The Longest Walk, a pioneering project exploring the experience of living with mental health issues and Highland Song, a beautiful adventure through the Scottish landscape. The exhibition has been continually updated at each new touring venue since the early 2000s and so we look forward to bringing the story of video gaming right up to date here in Scotland, where the industry today is so vibrant.”
Chris van der Kuyl, Chairman of 4J Studios, said: ““Scotland is driving innovation in the games industry. The National Museum of Scotland’s new exhibition, Game On, is a fantastic showcase of this pioneering sector and its significant cultural contributions.
“We’re proud that 4J Studio’s achievements are displayed alongside some of Scotland’s most innovative developers, to inspire the next generation of creators and ensure that Scotland continues to punch above its weight on the world stage.”
The exhibition is organised in thematic sections, exploring hardware formats such as handheld to home consoles to arcade machines, as well as wider cultural aspects such as the links between music, film and gaming.
A programme of public events will support the exhibition, including a Museum Late, relaxed viewings for those with sensory needs and family-focused activities to inspire videogaming’s next generation of creators.
The exhibition is the world’s largest interactive exhibition of the culture and history of video games, with 120 playable games spanning more than 50 years.
Game On will run at the National Museum of Scotland from 29 June to 3 November 2024. It will feature iconic characters from Space Invaders to Mario and highlight Scotland’s role as a pioneer and world leader in game development.
The exhibition will reveal the roots and development of Scottish gaming. From manufacturing the ZX Spectrum computer in Dundee in the 1980s to highlighting Scotland as home to some of the most innovative and influential game makers, including Rockstar North, creators of Grand Theft Auto.
Game On will showcase emerging Scottish talent such as Sad Owl Studios, whose game Viewfinder was awarded Best British Game at the Bafta Game Awards 2024. Visitors will also discover the important role Edinburgh studio 4J played in making Minecraft a global phenomenon.
Game On is curated and toured by Barbican Immersive. The exhibition examines the creative and technological advances that have established gaming as a new art form.
The National Museum of Scotland was the exhibition’s very first touring venue in 2002, and Game On has since been visited by over 5 million people of all ages in 25 cities around the world. Game On returns to Scotland in a landmark year for gaming that includes significant anniversaries such as 30 years since the release of the first PlayStation console and 40 years of the iconic puzzle game Tetris.
Patrick Moran, Game On Associate Curator, said: ““The gaming world has had an undeniable social, cultural, and technological impact. Games transcend the boundaries between art and technology, becoming part of popular culture.
“Game On presents the opportunity to not only see the evolution of video games and how they have changed over time but also to immerse yourself inside gaming worlds with over 100 playable games.
“The show features the largest playable collection in the world, including original arcades, hand-held consoles, and key games, including Pac-Man, Super Mario, Tetris, Sonic the Hedgehog, Just Dance and FIFA. The exhibition also explores new advances in the gaming world.
“Highly interactive, groundbreaking and popular, Game On is engaging for hardcore gamers and visitors new to gaming. Crucially, the show is suitable for players of all ages.”
Dr Geoff Belknap, Keeper of Science and Technology at National Museums Scotland, said: “It’s great to welcome Game On back to the National Museum of Scotland. As someone in charge of Scotland’s national science and technology collections, it’s exciting to explore the country’s incredible contribution to gaming, past and present.
“I’m delighted to bring Scottish independent games to a new audience, including The Longest Walk, a pioneering project exploring the experience of living with mental health issues and Highland Song, a beautiful adventure through the Scottish landscape.
“The exhibition has been continually updated at each new touring venue since the early 2000s and so we look forward to bringing the story of video gaming right up to date here in Scotland, where the industry today is so vibrant.”
The exhibition is organised in thematic sections, exploring hardware formats such as handheld to home consoles to arcade machines, as well as wider cultural aspects such as the links between music, film and gaming.
A programme of public events will support the exhibition, including a Museum Late and family-focused activities to inspire the next generation of game creators.
Book in *advance to save, general admission: Adult £12-£15, Over 65s £11-£14, Student, Young Scot, Disabled, Unemployed** £9-£12, Child 5-15† £8-£11, Under 5s free.
10% off when you book as a family‡
Discounts available for groups of 10 or more.
*Advance ticket prices are applicable up to 23:59:59 the day before.
**Valid ID required. Carers of disabled people free.
†Under 16s must be accompanied by an adult.
‡10% off when you buy up to three Child 5–15 tickets alongside up to any two Adult, Over 65s, Student, Young Scot, Disabled, Unemployed tickets, with a maximum of five tickets in total. Cannot be used in conjunction with National Museums Scotland Member tickets or any other discount or promotional offer.
Scottish Ensemble have built a devoted following for their Concerts by Candlelight in the Midwinter, and they now present a series of concerts revelling in the long days and abundance of natural light around the Summer Solstice.
Light-filled venues will resonate to the sounds of vibrant, uplifting music, performed with Scottish Ensemble’s characteristic zest and warmth.
From the 17th to the 21st of June, Concerts for a Summer’s Night will celebrate that magical juncture when daylight outlasts the night, filling the air with the promise of endless possibilities. Performances will take place in Rossie Byre in Perthshire, Strathpeffer Pavilion, Aberdeen Art Gallery, The National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh and Glasgow’s Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum.
Audiences can expect a treat as the ensemble blend classical and contemporary works for string orchestra into a joyful sonic summer cocktail.
From familiar works by Elgar and Mendelssohn to the innovative sounds of Tunde Jegede and Sigur Rós, the programme promises to transport listeners through centuries and musical styles, focusing on themes of joy and connection.
The much-awaited second instalment of Glasgow-based composer David Fennessy’s two-part commission will also feature. Following the warmly received debut of RAIN I during Scottish Ensemble’s Concerts by Candlelight performances last December, this new piece promises to captivate and inspire.
Jonathan Morton, Artistic Director of Scottish Ensemble, said: “Following on from last year’s second and warmly received Concerts for a Summer’s Night, I am looking forward to the third edition!
“We hope these events will become – like Concerts by Candlelight in December – a regular and anticipated feature of our season.
“At this time of year, natural light is almost a constant, tempting us to spend more time outside and reconnect with the natural world as well as with each other.
“There is a unique kind of energy around the time of the summer solstice, and I hope that hearing live music in these light-filled venues will be a vibrant and memorable experience.”
Tickets range from £9 – £22.50 and are free for under 16s.
Edinburgh Science Festival – celebrating it’s 35th anniversary this year – kicked off on Saturday, 30 March with the theme of ‘Shaping the Future’.
One of the key exhibitions this year is Growing Home at the National Museum of Scotland, exploring the past and future of materials and how biomaterials – like fungi – can be used for fashion, engineering and more.
Part of this special exhibition is Symbio from Edinburgh-based artist Emily Raemaekers, featured in the picture. Her garment uses mycelium materials and leather made from vegetable processing waste in combination with cutting edge environmentally-friendly fabrics.
Adorned with elaborate laser cut designs inspired by mycelium structures, hand carved lino print patterns and featuring plant-derived biomaterial dyes. Her work highlights some of the key issues in the fashion industry nowadays such as textile dyeing being the second largest polluter of water globally.
Emily Raemaekers is an Edinburgh-based designer who specialises in garment design and construction, and hand printed fabrics.
She studied Performance Costume Design at Edinburgh College of Art before working as a freelance Costume Designer in the Scottish theatre and film industry. Emily ran a textile printing and fashion accessory business for 10 years in Scotland and Australia, and dabbled in upholstery, before moving back to her hometown of Edinburgh where she is now a events planner, blending creativity and the arts with science.
Symbio is a collection of biomaterial themed garments inspired by fungus structures. Many of the most exciting and talked-about biomaterials being developed today are made from mushrooms, and the designer has used this as the inspiration for these garments. The designer has explored the properties of a range of biomaterials using a variety of construction methods. Bracket fungus-like elements are attached using appliqué, an ornamental needlework technique. The elaborate cape structure is created using laser cutting.
The base dress is dyed with dried hibiscus flowers, a biomaterial dye that produces a rich palette of pinks and reds. Industrial textile dyes contain many harmful chemicals derived from fossil fuels, and textile dyeing is the second largest polluter of water globally.
Many designers are now exploring natural dyes derived from plants, invertebrates, and minerals traditionally used by many cultures around the world. Although it is more difficult to produce consistent tones from natural dyes, this variation can be embraced as an aesthetic choice as part of the Slow Fashion movement.
The dress is decorated with mycelium patterns using linocut, a printmaking technique where linoleum is carved into to create a relief surface. The designer has printed these using water-based textile inks which are more sustainable than commonly used plastic-based alternatives.
The dress itself is made from Tencel(TM), a type of lyocell — a fibre made from wood pulp. As the raw material is responsibly forested wood, the textile originates from a renewable source, and Tencel(TM) uses a closed loop manufacturing process.
The fibres are also certified as compostable and biodegradable, making Tencel(TM) one of the more sustainable options for the fashion industry which are currently available on an industrial scale.
The designer has chosen a range of cutting-edge biomaterials to create the mushroom-like appliquéd elements that adorn the garments. Some are made from Uppeal(TM), a leather made from apple processing waste leftover from the juice and compote industry.
The apple fibres are made into a powder and mixed with polyurethane, then laminated onto cotton and polyester. Apple waste makes up 20% of the final textile and every meter contains 5 apples. By using waste, Uppeal(TM) helps to create a circular economy which supports the planting of fruit trees and provides a second income for farmers.
MuSkin is also used for some appliquéd elements. This is an alternative to animal leather made from a large parasitic fungus that grows wild in subtropical forests. Every piece of MuSkin is unique, 100% natural and does not use any chemicals or plastics in the production process.
This fascinating material is designed to offer an innovative, low-carbon alternative to materials that use fossil fuels in their manufacturing process.
Animal leather has a significant carbon footprint, as livestock farming uses a lot of fossil fuels to power farm machinery the produce animal feed, and clearing land for livestock is responsible for much of the world’s deforestation. Animals also produce a lot of methane, a big contributor to greenhouse gases.
Other appliquéd elements in these garments include SeaCell(TM), a new lyocell fabric that uses 19% algae in its fibres. Whilst a good example of a biodegradable fibre, the brand has faced some controversy for its claims that minerals and vitamins can be absorbed through skin contact with the fabric. As industrial interest in biomaterials increases, global scrutiny of any associated claims of green or health credentials also rises.
Some more traditional biomaterials are featured in the garments, including:
Silk, a protein fibre made from the cocoons of certain insect larvae.
Cork, a biodegradable fibre made from tree bark. Cork is sustainable as the tree is not cut down in the harvesting process; the stripped bark regenerates and the tree continues to grow.
Linen, a natural textile made from the fibres of the flax plant. Linen is a sustainable choice for the garment industry because the entire flax plant can be woven into a fibre, making it a zero-waste crop. It also takes dye extremely well, and the linen used in this art piece has also been dyed using hibiscus flowers.